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This list compiles all of the tools that you will need to complete the dovetail box project! All buttons will take you to my page on Kit where you can read more of my thoughts on the tool and purchase it if you want to.

Where possible, I have supplied multiple options for each tool to account for different budgets. Keep in mind that these are listed in order of my preference, not necessarily price. Here's an example tool so you can learn the layout:

The majority of the links in this document are affiliate links meaning I get a small commission if you purchase after clicking. This is at no extra cost to you. The buttons below will take you either directly to the tool, or to my page on Kit. This will allow you to read more of my thoughts on the tool before purchase.

This list compiles all of the tools that you will need to complete the dovetail box project! All buttons will take you to my page on Kit where you can read more of my thoughts on the tool and purchase it if you want to.

Where possible, I have supplied multiple options for each tool to account for different budgets. Keep in mind that these are listed in order of my preference, not necessarily price. Here's an example tool so you can learn the layout:

The majority of the links in this document are affiliate links meaning I get a small commission if you purchase after clicking. This is at no extra cost to you. The buttons below will take you either directly to the tool, or to my page on Kit. This will allow you to read more of my thoughts on the tool before purchase.

This list compiles all of the tools that you will need to complete the dovetail box project! All buttons will take you to my page on Kit where you can read more of my thoughts on the tool and purchase it if you want to.

Where possible, I have supplied multiple options for each tool to account for different budgets. Keep in mind that these are listed in order of my preference, not necessarily price. Here's an example tool so you can learn the layout:

The majority of the links in this document are affiliate links meaning I get a small commission if you purchase after clicking. This is at no extra cost to you. The buttons below will take you either directly to the tool, or to my page on Kit. This will allow you to read more of my thoughts on the tool before purchase.

THE TOOLBOX PROJECT
TOOL LIST

This list compiles all of the tools that you will need to complete the toolbox project! All buttons will take you to my page on Kit where you can read more of my thoughts on the tool and purchase it if you want to.

Where possible, I have supplied multiple options for each tool to account for different budgets. Keep in mind that these are listed in order of my preference, not necessarily price. Here's an example tool so you can learn the layout:

Tool Example Image v2.png

The majority of the links in this document are affiliate links meaning I get a small commission if you purchase after clicking. This is at no extra cost to you. The buttons below will take you either directly to the tool, or to my page on Kit. This will allow you to read more of my thoughts on the tool before purchase.

SAWS

Dovetail Saw

An essential tool for every woodworker. Characteristics of a good dovetail saw are a rip tooth pattern, roughly 14tpi. A long plate and a fine kerf is also very desirable. Both of these extra features help you make extra progress with each stroke.

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Veritas Dovetail Saw
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A perfect starter saw that is both affordable, and works like a charm.

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Japanese Dozuki Saw
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A slightly heavier duty dovetail saw that can double up as a tenon saw.

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Japanese Tatebiki Saw
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A great japanese saw to get you started with the concept of pull strokes.

Coping / Fret Saw

This will be used to clear the waste between the dovetails. A fret saw has a much thinner blade than a coping saw and is generally a lot easier to use. However it can also be easier to snap. So be patient!

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Knew Concepts Fret Saw
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Go for the basic 5″ screw tensioning version. You won't regret it!

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Bahco Coping Saw
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The rectangular section of this frame prevents the blade from de-tensioning.

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Eclipse Coping Saw
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An entry level coping saw this is simple and affordable.

Crosscut Carcass Saw

This will be used to roughly size the material. While you can use the dovetail saw to do this, a crosscut tooth pattern will give you a much cleaner and accurate finish. The word ‘carcass’ refers to the depth of the blade, which is deeper than a usual dovetail saw.

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Veritas Crosscut Carcass Saw
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I purchased this saw in my first year of woodworking and still use it today!

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Dozuki Crosscut Saw
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A razor sharp, easy to use crosscut saw that allows incredible control.

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Lie-Nielsen Crosscut Saw
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The tapered plate is a nice touch, but the saw comes with a heftier price tag.

PLANES

Bench Plane

The plane will be used to shoot the ends of the components square and smooth off joints after assembly. I recommend starting with a Jack Plane as it’s a good size for all round woodworking. However a No.4 would also be a good option.

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Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane
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A rock solid tool with tons of versatility. Exquisitely finished too!​

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Quangsheng No.62
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A versatile style of plane for lower budgets compared to my first choice.

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Rider No. 5 Jack Plane
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A great all rounder plane that works exactly as intended

Rebate / Rabbet Plane

This will be used to cut the rebates on the lid so that it sits within the box without sliding off. You can also choose a shoulder plane or Router Table to do this job.

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Veritas Skew Rebate Plane
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Easily the best rebate plane I have used. The skew pulls the blade into the work.

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Veritas Skew Rebate Block Plane
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A smaller, handier size of the first choice. Used for all sorts of tasks.

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Rider Rebate Plane
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A standard rebate plane, exactly the same as used in the video series.

VS.

Router Table

Available with a variety of top materials to suit a variety of budgets.

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UJK / Kreg Professional Router Table
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Available with a variety of top materials to suit a variety of budgets.

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Trend Router Table
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A solid router table from a reliable routing brand.

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UJK Insert Plate
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Build your own router table around this insert plate. All you need is a router.

Block Plane

While you can use a bench plane to flush off joinery, they can be cumbersome at times. A block plane is an ideal substitute for this as well as many other tasks.

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Lie-Nielsen No.60 1/2 Block Plane
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A beautifully manufactured tool that I highly recommend.​

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Quangsheng 60 1/2 Block Plane
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This is the first plane we give to our students at Rycotewood

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Rider 60 1/2 Block Plane
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A handy size for small jobs such as flushing joinery

CHISELS

1/2″ (12.7mm) Chisel

This is probably my most used chisel size. Characteristics of a good chisel are bevel edged with fine points at the bottom of the bevels. This will allow you to get into the bottom corners of the tails without bruising the material.

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Lie-Nielsen Socket Chisel
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Comfortable, lightweight and high quality A2 steel. My favourite chisel.

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Ashley Isles Chisel
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A beautiful handmade chisel with a high carbon steel 01 blade.

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Rider Chisel
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A good budget chisel with a hornbeam handle and 01 blade.

1/4″ (6.35mm) Chisel

This smaller size is much more precise than the ½ inch size previously mentioned and will be invaluable when cleaning waste between the tails.

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Lie-Nielsen Socket Chisel
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Comfortable, lightweight and high quality A2 steel. My favourite chisel.

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Ashley Isles Chisel
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A beautiful handmade chisel with a high carbon steel 01 blade.

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Rider Chisel
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A good budget chisel with a hornbeam handle and 01 blade.

3/4″ (19mm) Chisel

Not essential for this project but very useful in the long run. If I could only choose 3 chisels, it would be a ¾ inch, a ½ inch and a ¼ inch.

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Lie-Nielsen Socket Chisel
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Comfortable, lightweight and high quality A2 steel. My favourite chisel.

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Ashley Isles Chisel
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A beautiful handmade chisel with a high carbon steel 01 blade.

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Rider Chisel
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A good budget chisel with a hornbeam handle and 01 blade.

MEASURING & MARKING

Cutting Gauge

Another essential tool for any woodworkers toolkit. This tool is invaluable when laying out joinery as well as a multitude of other workshop tasks.

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Veritas Marking Gauge
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It can cut with the grain, across the grain, it leaves a very clean and precise line to work to, and lasts forever!

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Quangsheng Marking Gauge
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Both WR and QS models are very similar. Slightly bulkier than the Veritas model.

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Irwin Cutting Gauge
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I recommend re-shaping the blade into a semi-circle as opposed to a point.

300mm Ruler

I much prefer a ruler as opposed to a tape measure when laying out fine joinery.

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Rabone Ruler
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Incredibly accurate with easy to see markings. Both metric and imperial.

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Japanese Ruler
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A clear, easy to read ruler with solely metric markings.

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Basic Ruler
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A basic metal ruler. Nothing too fancy to see here!

Sliding Bevel

A sliding bevel will be used to define the angles of the dovetails. A dovetail marker is much handier for this specific task, however you’ll probably find the sliding bevel to be more useful in future projects

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Shinwa Sliding Bevel
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The lock on this thing is absolutely rock solid and will not budge after tightening.

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Bahco Sliding Bevel
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Very similar to the Shinwa Bevel, but in Hi-Vis orange!

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Sliding Bevel
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A simple sliding bevel with a standard locking mechanism.

VS.

Dovetail Marker

A dovetail marker is helpful when laying out dovetails because it allows you to draw the pitch of the dovetail as well as square across the endgrain in one pass. If you’re unsure what dovetail ratio to use, this video will help.

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Veritas Dovetail Marker
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These come in 1:8 and 1:6 pitches and allow squaring across endgrain simultaneously.

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Sterling Dovetail Marker
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A precision made tool that can also be used to square down the face.

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Dovetail Markers
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A simple set of dovetail markers that will mark out the pitch for you.

Marking Knife

I much prefer a scalpel blade for laying out my joinery, specifically a Swann-Morton SM01 blade. However I recognise this isn’t to everyone’s taste!

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Custom Marking Knife
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My go-to knife for precision marking. These custom knives are all made by me!

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Stanley Pocket Knife
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A super sharp, precision, fold away knife that is incredibly versatile.

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Veritas Striking Knife
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A sharp, ergonomic knife. Sharpening it can be difficult though.

Engineers Square

Engineers squares are guaranteed to be square on both the inside and outside edges. Whereas wooden try squares are only guaranteed to be square on the inside edges. A good set of these will last you a lifetime (If you don’t drop them)

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Faithfull Engineers Squares
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These are way more precise than traditional try squares and do not break the bank either.

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Kinex Engineers Square
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Reliable precision that is used by our students at Rycotewood Furniture Centre.

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Axminster Precision Engineers Square
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A basic set of engineers squares. Far more accurate that wooden try squares.

Awl

A nice stubby awl that allows precise marking. Also doesn't roll of the bench!

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Axminster Round Awl
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A nice stubby awl that allows precise marking. Also doesn't roll of the bench!

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Narex Round Awl
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Very similar to the Axminster Round Awl, but is available from Workshop Heaven.

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Faithfull Round Awl
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A basic awl that can be used to mark screw locations before drilling.

MISCELLANEOUS

Mallet

Used with a chisel to help clear out waste between dovetails as well as tap joints together during assembly.

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Dovetailing Mallet
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A handmade mallet made by myself. Only available in batches!

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Veritas Brass Mallet
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A very compact mallet that certainly packs a punch!

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Wooden Mallet
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A traditional beech carpenters mallet that is bulky but versatile.

Clamps

As this project is quite small, you want to ensure that the clamps will not distort the piece during assembly. Lightweight parallel jaw clamps are my go to option for this. While it’s good to have a mixture of lengths, I find the 600mm to be most versatile.

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Axminster 600mm Standard Duty Parallel Jaw Clamps
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Lightweight, versatile, and will not distort the piece while clamping.

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Bessey 600mm UniKlamp
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The original parallel jaw clamp. Shares the same benefits at the Axminster ones.

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Aluminium Sash Clamp
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